Trapeze

I found an out of print McCalls pattern last year that was described as a trapeze dress. It had a definite 60's vibe and I had all kinds of fabric ideas for it. But it, along with all other sewing projects, lay sidelined while my post-vaccine life speeded up. Finally, in August, I decided to force some creative time for myself by entering a sewing contest on the Sewing Pattern Review site. It was a month-long contest and the subject was Ankara fabrics. I decided I would make the trapeze dress with some wild pink & orange Vlisco fabric that I purchased from Etsy last year. 

The pattern instructions were straightforward but after pinning the pattern onto my dress form I realized quite a lot of alterations were needed. The pattern was a size 10 and my normal pattern size is 14. That was quite a huge jump in sizes and because this was a vintage pattern, multiple sizes weren't included. My biggest alterations were in the upper torso and armhole area, which were cut close to the body. I also decided that instead of a zipper, I would create a back opening with button closure. I added pockets, something which I consider a necessity in all women's garments. Finally, I cut the length of the dress by about two inches.

After much studying of YouTube tutorials, web articles and my own notes, I was ready to sew the dress with some trepidations. My lack of confidence is due to lack of practice - it's been a year since I sewed anything of significance, and decades since I sewed complicated items like coats and suits.

Meanwhile, since I was making so many alterations to customize the pattern, I decided to make a second trapeze dress with longer sleeves. It was an opportunity to order more Vlisco fabric, this time directly from the Netherlands. The fabric I chose was named in honor the singer, Angelique Kidjo.   

Was relieved and thrilled that both dresses came out exactly as imagined. They will be perfect for the many gallery and studio events that I participate in and with Indian Summer on its way, I might actually be able to wear them without a shirt or leggings underneath.

THE PERFECT DRESS

My encounter with the Perfect Dress back in 2017 had to do with trouble-shooting the weather. I was flying into Manhattan in mid-July, not my idea of fun. It was perhaps more bearable than Kyoto in mid-July, but it came close. I began fretting in April, trying to figure out what I could wear that would be comfortable walking the High Line, ducking into air conditioned museums, dining in stylish restaurants, and remaining uncrumpled from the humid, relentless heat. Black was definitely out. It made me sweat just to think about all that heat black fabrics would absorb. Besides isn’t summer supposed to be colorful?  

Enter Zuri. I happened upon a New York Times article about an online store that sold just one dress. Intrigued, I went to their website and fell in love with the silhouette and the choices of bold, colorful fabrics. Each dress was given a quirky name rather than a description of color or fabric design. And just like the article said, they sold just one dress. 

 

The NYT article must have resonated with a lot of women because pretty much all of the dresses were sold out. I finally snagged one called “Laffy Taffy." With bright swirls of hot pink, orange, yellow and navy, it was bold choice. But it was also the only one left in Size M. Due to high demand, "Laffy Taffy" took months to ship and arrived a couple of days before I departed for Manhattan. If it didn’t fit, I would be SOL.

The dress was perfect. Cut close to the body at the top, it fit my torso like a glove, then flared out from the waist for easy walking. Instead of a loose tent shape, the hourglass silhouette was feminine and flattering. Everywhere I went in Manhattan, women stopped me and wanted to know where to get one. The cotton fabric kept me cool outside, the sleeves kept me from freezing in air conditioned spaces and the colorful print made me very happy.

Since that trip, I've purchased many Zuris, some colorful, some muted, such as the spotted one shown here. I wear the more sedate ones in Japan, to blend in with women wearing understated colors.

Following my experience in Manhattan, I've also become an unwitting influencer for Zuri. An artist in my studio building instantly fell in love with the dress and has become one of Zuri's biggest fans.I went to a gathering of writer friends and they were so charmed by the bold fabric print that they made me take my dress off so they could try it on for themselves. Surprisingly, my Size M fit everyone, regardless of body shape. One of my friends at that party wrote an article in the San Francisco Chronicle about Zuri and has become friends with one of the owners. There have even been book readings at the San Francisco store - a perfect collaborative opportunity for the shop owner and writers.Now that Zuri has been around for a number of years, I am seeing more and more women wearing them but because the fabric selections change constantly, I rarely see the same dress on someone twice. Zuri women wave to each other, in acknowledgement of our Sisterhood.

 

 WHAT MAKES ZURI A PERFECT DRESS? 

Attractive silhouette

The soft hourglass silhouette is flattering on the body. I have seen women in all sizes and shapes wearing Zuri dresses and they all look fabulous. Also the length of the dress is just right. It hits just below the knee, makes walking around easy and does not tangle up with tights, leggings or skinny jeans. Zuri has now introduced shirts and sleeveless dresses in their collection. 

Bold fabric choices

Zuri uses a variety of kitenge and ankara fabrics from East and West Africa, respectively. Some designs are colorful, oversized and bold while others are more sedate. Most are short-production bolts so if you love the fabric, get the dress right away. The dresses are cut on the bias, which is why many of the patterns run diagonally. Warning: there is not a single black dress selection in Zuri. 

Sleeves

I love short sleeves! My arms are too flabbly to hang out of a sleeveless dress. Thank you Zuri for including sleeves that are neither too short nor too long. I wish summer clothes by other retailers included sleeve options. 

Pockets, Pockets, Pockets

Too many women's garments have either no pockets or tiny, useless imaginary pockets. Where am I to put my mask, iPhone, sunglasses, keys and money? Zuri's ample side-seam pockets can accommodate these and more, without looking the least bit bulky.

Buttons

The row of buttons make the dress versatile. The hidden button placket is a great touch because it prevents the front from gaping if one is busty or have had too much to eat. 

Versatility

I am amazed at the many ways Zuris can be worn. Due to a cool summer here, I usually wear mine with a thin Uniqlo HEATTECH shirt and leggings underneath. I've worn it on its own in hot weather, and in the winter, as a jacket or under a jacket. I wear the sleeveless dress with either a HEATTECH shirt underneath or a linen shirt over it. Others have worn the Zuri as a skirt or a shrug.