THE REUNION MUUMUU

Just ahead of the COVID travel shut-down, my high school class held its reunion in Oahu, Hawaii in February. Last summer, when I was making reservations with my friends for an Airbnb condo, the thought of getting a muumuu popped into my head. This was irrational, as I knew that muumuus went out of fashion eons ago. Still, in my mind's eye, this was the quintessential garment to wear to a 50-year reunion in Paradise with friendly classmates from around the world. I was not seeking an inexpensive sack-like muumuu that could double as a nightgown after the reunion. No, my dream muumuu would be one of those slender full-length gowns worn by Hawaiian Royalty. It was to have interesting details such as ruffles, fluttery sleeves or a train. I wanted the fabric to be tropical: floral, leafy or oceanic. It was still seven months away from our reunion and I had plenty of time to acquire this perfect garment. 

So the search began, starting with Amazon. Their selections were of the short nightgown variety so I went on to Etsy and Ebay. They had better selections, particularly in the vintage section. I found a lovely second-hand muumuu on Etsy, but someone else got there first. Not discouraged, I realized that a large number of vintage patterns were also available. Some were from familiar pattern houses and others were from Hawaiian pattern companies that no longer existed. The one I selected was made by Kekahi. Upon closer inspection of the simple line drawings, I found that the dress incorporated some nice details, such as a Watteau train, petal sleeves and long darts to create a curve in the dress. I hadn't sewn in 30 years but how difficult could it be to sew my own muumuu? Inspired by the pattern, I began the search for fabric. That part of it was more straightforward because an acquaintance had turned me on to a Dutch company called Vlisco. They manufactured high-end batik fabrics for African designers and sewing enthusiasts. Their selection of fabrics were perfect for a muumuu. I chose a lovely abstract wave pattern. 

Despite starting the project in July, it took me all the way into January to complete the muumuu. There were plenty of detours along the way. First, the Etsy vendor misplaced the pattern and ended up refunding me. By the time she fessed up on the reason for her delay in sending me the pattern, my beautiful fabric from Vlisco had arrived. I did a desperate internet search and finally found the same pattern in a Hawaiian store in Texas. Then when the pattern finally arrived two weeks later and I measured the pattern pieces, I realized several adjustments had to be made. It was daunting to calculate the changes and work them in since I hadn't done pattern alterations in many years. I sewed a muslin first just to make sure I had measured correctly and was thrilled when the sample dress fit perfectly. I had just enough time to cut the fabric and mark it before putting everything on hold while I traveled to Japan to visit family, worked on an exhibition, prepared for open studios, drove down to LA and held a Holiday art fair. Finally, in December, I was ready to start sewing. Everything went smoothly until I foundered on the directions for making the Watteau train. My brain couldn't process the written directions. I finally found a YouTube video and realized that it was simply a large inverted pleat. The muumuu was finally finished in mid-January. Despite everything, it came out quite nicely and the reunion was a great deal of fun. Our class of 1970 is tight-knit and diverse, and we get together somewhere in the world every five years. I wonder where our next one will be? 

WHAT I LIKE ABOUT THE REUNION MUUMUU

• All of the details - deep darts, petal sleeves, Watteau train, the full length
• The multi-size pattern, which made it easier for me make adjustments
• The gorgeous Vlisco print, which looked like the Hawaiian ocean
• The cool temperature of the cotton fabric - as is typical of batik fabric
• I skipped the back zipper. It wasn't necessary.

WHAT COULD IMPROVE

• Pattern directions were sometimes too brief. No visual illustration.
• I had to add in seam allowances.
• I wish the Vlisco fabric didn't have the gold overlay on the fabric design. 
• I need to add in the back darts so that the yoke isn't constantly falling off my shoulder
• No pockets! 

        

THE PERFECT DRESS

My encounter with the Perfect Dress back in 2017 had to do with trouble-shooting the weather. I was flying into Manhattan in mid-July, not my idea of fun. It was perhaps more bearable than Kyoto in mid-July, but it came close. I began fretting in April, trying to figure out what I could wear that would be comfortable walking the High Line, ducking into air conditioned museums, dining in stylish restaurants, and remaining uncrumpled from the humid, relentless heat. Black was definitely out. It made me sweat just to think about all that heat black fabrics would absorb. Besides isn’t summer supposed to be colorful?  

Enter Zuri. I happened upon a New York Times article about an online store that sold just one dress. Intrigued, I went to their website and fell in love with the silhouette and the choices of bold, colorful fabrics. Each dress was given a quirky name rather than a description of color or fabric design. And just like the article said, they sold just one dress. 

 

The NYT article must have resonated with a lot of women because pretty much all of the dresses were sold out. I finally snagged one called “Laffy Taffy." With bright swirls of hot pink, orange, yellow and navy, it was bold choice. But it was also the only one left in Size M. Due to high demand, "Laffy Taffy" took months to ship and arrived a couple of days before I departed for Manhattan. If it didn’t fit, I would be SOL.

The dress was perfect. Cut close to the body at the top, it fit my torso like a glove, then flared out from the waist for easy walking. Instead of a loose tent shape, the hourglass silhouette was feminine and flattering. Everywhere I went in Manhattan, women stopped me and wanted to know where to get one. The cotton fabric kept me cool outside, the sleeves kept me from freezing in air conditioned spaces and the colorful print made me very happy.

Since that trip, I've purchased many Zuris, some colorful, some muted, such as the spotted one shown here. I wear the more sedate ones in Japan, to blend in with women wearing understated colors.

Following my experience in Manhattan, I've also become an unwitting influencer for Zuri. An artist in my studio building instantly fell in love with the dress and has become one of Zuri's biggest fans.I went to a gathering of writer friends and they were so charmed by the bold fabric print that they made me take my dress off so they could try it on for themselves. Surprisingly, my Size M fit everyone, regardless of body shape. One of my friends at that party wrote an article in the San Francisco Chronicle about Zuri and has become friends with one of the owners. There have even been book readings at the San Francisco store - a perfect collaborative opportunity for the shop owner and writers.Now that Zuri has been around for a number of years, I am seeing more and more women wearing them but because the fabric selections change constantly, I rarely see the same dress on someone twice. Zuri women wave to each other, in acknowledgement of our Sisterhood.

 

 WHAT MAKES ZURI A PERFECT DRESS? 

Attractive silhouette

The soft hourglass silhouette is flattering on the body. I have seen women in all sizes and shapes wearing Zuri dresses and they all look fabulous. Also the length of the dress is just right. It hits just below the knee, makes walking around easy and does not tangle up with tights, leggings or skinny jeans. Zuri has now introduced shirts and sleeveless dresses in their collection. 

Bold fabric choices

Zuri uses a variety of kitenge and ankara fabrics from East and West Africa, respectively. Some designs are colorful, oversized and bold while others are more sedate. Most are short-production bolts so if you love the fabric, get the dress right away. The dresses are cut on the bias, which is why many of the patterns run diagonally. Warning: there is not a single black dress selection in Zuri. 

Sleeves

I love short sleeves! My arms are too flabbly to hang out of a sleeveless dress. Thank you Zuri for including sleeves that are neither too short nor too long. I wish summer clothes by other retailers included sleeve options. 

Pockets, Pockets, Pockets

Too many women's garments have either no pockets or tiny, useless imaginary pockets. Where am I to put my mask, iPhone, sunglasses, keys and money? Zuri's ample side-seam pockets can accommodate these and more, without looking the least bit bulky.

Buttons

The row of buttons make the dress versatile. The hidden button placket is a great touch because it prevents the front from gaping if one is busty or have had too much to eat. 

Versatility

I am amazed at the many ways Zuris can be worn. Due to a cool summer here, I usually wear mine with a thin Uniqlo HEATTECH shirt and leggings underneath. I've worn it on its own in hot weather, and in the winter, as a jacket or under a jacket. I wear the sleeveless dress with either a HEATTECH shirt underneath or a linen shirt over it. Others have worn the Zuri as a skirt or a shrug.